The Well Puppy

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Choosing a puppy

It is worth spending time researching what kind of dog will suit you and your family. Just like humans, dogs are living longer so the pup you choose may still be part of the family in 14 years time. You may have a preference for a particular breed or you may want a mongrel, but it is important that you select the right dog for your lifestyle. Never buy from an unknown source and, if possible, visit the house to see the kind of place your puppy comes from. It is essential to get a healthy pup from a clean home where the litter has been well nurtured and handled from an early age. Spend some time, too, with the mother to get an idea of her temperament. If she is the kind of dog you would like as your pet, than her puppies should be suitable for you.

A healthy pup should have a friendly, confident manner but should not be dominant with its litter mates. Timid pups often become highly strung and dominant pups might become aggressive clean, bright eyes with no redness or discharge clean ears with no waxy crusts in the ear canal the front teeth (called the incisors) should meet. If they don't, it means the pup has an undershot jaw. This is a defect and could lead to early dental problems. the skin should be sleek and shiny with no dandruff or black specks indicating flea dirt the back end should be clean and odour free. Soiling might indicate diarrhoea the pup should be plump with rolls of loose skin. If the pup has a potbelly with prominent ribs than it may be sickly or have worms Most puppies can be acquired at 6-8 weeks of age. At this stage they will be fully weaned but still young enough to adapt well to your household. It is a good idea to take all new pups for a health check at the vet to discuss vaccination, worming and diet. Your vet will also check for any birth defects such as hare lip, umbilical hernia (swelling at the belly button) and an undershot jaw.

Your pup's first days keep it confined to one room of the house so that it gets a chance to settle in provide a cosy bed in a quiet place away from children feed your pup the same diet it received from the breeder pet-proof your home - pups love to chew, so make sure electric flexes, handbags and anything remotely edible is out of reach give your pet its own toys to play with

Vaccinations

All puppies should be vaccinated against four potentially fatal diseases: Distemper, Parvovirus, Infectious Canine Hepatitis and Leptospirosis.

Puppy vaccination 1st vaccination 8 weeks 2nd vaccination 12 weeks newer vaccines are now available which can be started even earlier at 6 and 10 weeks. Discuss this with your vet. In the past the recommendation was to keep the puppy at home until a week after the vaccination course finished. However as the best time to socialise a puppy is between 3-12 weeks of age it is now advised that you expose your pup to the outside world as early as possible. Many vet surgeries hold puppy parties where healthy pups can mix together and learn basic obedience training and good puppy behaviour.

Puppies over 12 weeks 1st vaccination - any time 2nd vaccination 2-4 weeks later     After the initial vaccination course an annual booster is recommended.

Worming

All pups are born with roundworms, which they inherit from their mother in the womb or through her milk. The main roundworms of pups are called Toxocara Canis and Toxascaris Leonina. Humans (especially toddlers) can pick up Toxocara Canis worm eggs if they touch dog faeces and put their hand to their mouth. In exceptional cases this could lead to serious eye damage. The main point to realise is that each time you worm a pup you will only kill a certain percentage of worms. It is very important all pups are wormed at regular intervals from 2 weeks of age up to 6 months. Most healthy pups have worms without showing any symptoms. If your pup has a lot of worms you may sometimes see the following signs: a ravenous appetite weight loss a pot belly vomiting and diarrhoea white spaghetti worms in the faeces There are many roundworm medications on the market but it is important you choose a remedy that is easy to give and effective. Discuss the best worming regime with your vet.

Flea Control

Even the best cared for puppies can still get fleas. Fleas are a hazard of modern living because we all have warm, centrally heated houses with fitted carpets where fleas love to lay their eggs. It is important to remember that if your pup has fleas you must treat not only the pup but any other dogs or cats in the house too. You must also treat your pup's bed and the house, as this is where the flea eggs will be laid. Remember it is always best to start flea control before your puppy gets fleas. That way when the flea bites it will get killed and your pup won't get irritable and itchy. The best form of flea control should be safe for your pup, easy to administer and suit your budget. Flea products available from your vet are best because they have a much longer lasting effect and are more potent. Talk to your vet about the most effective method.

Different types of flea control Flea powders: available from pet shops. These are very mild and need to be applied every one to two weeks. They are messy to use and not advisable if you are asthmatic Flea shampoo: only effective if your pup is crawling with fleas. They do not prevent further infestations Flea combing: if you groom your pup with a fine comb you can remove the fleas. However this will not stop the fleas in your pet's environment so it will quickly pick up more Flea collars: these are unsightly, often leave an imprint on the fur, and have only a mild effect against fleas Flea sprays: sometimes the noise of the aerosol spray can scare your pup. The strength of spray varies according to the chemical ingredient and more potent long lasting sprays are only available from veterinary surgeons Spot on products: a drop is put on the back of the puppy's neck where it gets absorbed into the skin. There are many types on the market but the stronger long lasting ones are only available on prescription from your vet. These are easy to apply and are less stressful for you and your pet! Flea pill: this is a tablet given in the food once a month. This tablet acts against the flea larvae and stops them developing into adult fleas. It is very effective but you may need to use other products for the first month or two to kill off the adult fleas as well

Puppies under 12 weeks There are few products licensed in puppies under 12 weeks. You can use mild pet shop powder, which may help, but the best one is a water based spray, which is available only through your vet. This usually has to be repeated every 2 to 3 months. Puppies over 12 weeks Once your pup is over 12 weeks there are more licensed products available. The selection of an appropriate flea remedy should depend on your budget and which one you find easiest to use. Environmental control Treating the pup is not enough. Fleas treat dogs like a restaurant and hop on for a quick meal. The flea eggs then fall off the coat and can lay dormant for up to a year in the carpets, your pet's bed or dark crevices like behind the radiators and skirting boards. In order to stop your pet becoming reinfested from the house it is advisable to spray your house with a product to kill off the flea eggs. These sprays can be long acting and often have an effect for 7 months. Regular vacuuming and keeping your pet's bed clean is also important - wash the blankets and the bed regularly.

Vomiting and diarrhoea Worms or a sudden change in your pup's diet could cause a mild dose. Make all food changes very gradually so your pup's delicate digestive system has time to adapt to the new food. Worm it regularly according to your vet's instructions. If your pup is ill, feed a bland food for a day or two like scrambled eggs, chicken and rice. Avoid milk. But if your pup has vomiting and diarrhoea and is poorly seek veterinary attention immediately. Swallowing objects As your pup gets older it will want to chew everything in sight to help exercise its teeth. Always provide its own special chewing toys and make sure your house is puppy-proof. Many pups love to rummage in their owner's handbags, the rubbish bin or chew children's toys. This could be dangerous for your pet as they could eat something poisonous or get an obstruction in the guts. If you think your pup has swallowed something seek veterinary advice immediately. Broken bones Pups have very fragile bones and get greenstick fractures very easily. Household accidents are common as pups get under people's feet and get trodden on. They can also break a leg falling off the sofa or being dropped by a child. If you pup goes lame you should get it checked by your vet. Many greenstick fractures heal very fast, but unless they are splinted correctly by your vet your pup could be left with a crooked leg. Car sickness This is very common in young puppies. Wrap your pup in a towel on car journeys in case of accidents. Try not to feed it before a planned car ride and start first with a short spin around the block. Once your pet gets used to the motion of the car you can take it for longer car journeys.

 

Socialising

It is a sad fact that more adult dogs are put to sleep for behavioural problems like aggression or destructive tendencies than illness or disease.

Therefore it is very important that you help your pet adapt to the outside world from an early age. Otherwise, just like people, they can become nervous, highly strung and often bite from fear. The best time to socialise a puppy is from 3-12 weeks because whatever your pet encounters during this time it will perceive as normal. A good breeder will have started the socialisation process by handling the pups from 3 weeks and letting them mix with other people and children. Many adult dogs that are nervous with men, aggressive to policemen or snappy with children may not have had enough exposure when they were a puppy. They develop antisocial manners because they do not recognise these events as familiar. Try and carry your pup out and about wherever you go so that it encounters lots of people and places. However, until your pet is fully vaccinated do not walk it along the streets, in public parks or let it meet stray dogs.

How to help socialise your pup let it mix with men, women and children let your pup meet other dogs and cats expose it to all loud noises - fire engine sirens, police cars, busy traffic, vacuum cleaners introduce it to people in the street - policemen, lollipop men, cyclists and joggers take it down to the local shops and let strangers stroke and talk to it take it for lots of short car rides carry it through crowded streets with lots of people take your pup with you when you visit friends so it gets used to different houses and people if you live in a town take it to the country so it can meet horse riders, cattle and sheep enrol at your local puppy party - these are held for healthy vaccinated pups and a pet behaviourist will teach your pet and you all about the correct pet code of behaviour

Feeding

When you get your pup it should be fully weaned and be eating solids. Puppies grow very fast so have a high requirement for carbohydrate foods for energy, protein for growth and calcium for their bones. Although meat is high in protein it is low in calcium so it should not form more than half of your puppy's diet. Most pet foods balance this with cereal carbohydrate, which is high in energy. Unless you are a dog breeder with years of experience a commercial pet food is best for your pup as it will be fully balanced for all your pet's nutritional needs. Nowadays there is a wide variety of pet foods designed for the growing puppy.

What type of food should I give my pup? It is best to feed your pup the same food it received at the breeder for the first week. After that it is personal preference and your budget. Different types of commercial pet foods are available. These are classified according to the water content of the food. moist ( 70 -85% water): this includes the canned or plastic pot foods. These come in two forms. A meat and cereal can, which forms a complete diet, or a 100% meat form that can be mixed with dog meal semi-moist (23-40% water): these tend to be very digestible and palatable because they have more calories than canned food dry food (6-10% water): complete dry foods are now becoming very popular as they provide the full balance of protein and carbohydrate. As these can be bought in bulk they are more cost-effective for large breed puppies with hearty appetites After your pup has settled in, change it to a diet suitable for puppy growth and your budget. In general, you pay for what you get. Cheaper pet foods are less digestible so your pup may need to consume more to satisfy its energy requirements. Other foods Unlike the cat, which is a true carnivore, dogs eat other foods besides meat. They will readily eat food for human consumption like pasta, vegetables, scrambled eggs and breakfast cereals. Once your pup is weaned from its mother it does not need milk. Many pups cannot tolerate lactose (milk sugar) and it can be a common cause of diarrhoea. Low-fat milk is not a substitute as it still contains milk sugar.

How often should I feed my pup? Pups have small stomachs so need to be fed little and often. It is best to give your pup set mealtimes as feeding ad hoc can lead to an overweight pup. Feeding regime 8-12 weeks: four meals daily 12-16 weeks: three meals daily 16-24 weeks: 2-3 meals daily How much should my pup get to eat? This will vary considerably according to the breed. Large breed dogs grow very fast and need more bulk for energy. A good rule of thumb is to allow your pup to eat as much as it wants in 20 minutes at each feed. A growing pup needs plenty of food but don't be tempted to overfeed your pup. Overfeeding large breed dogs is particularly harmful as it can accelerate the growth rate and cause skeletal problems. This could make your pup more prone to developing hip dysplasia or joint deformities or becoming obese in later life. NB: Do not give your puppy any extra minerals and vitamins. All commercial puppy foods have added vitamins and minerals, and overdosing your pup can cause harmful growth problems.